Verde Kitchen menu is a map of ringers and zingers

Mr. Bulman acknowledges his shift in priorities from fine dining to this more popular fare. "With my background, I thought I'd be expanding the entrees," he said, "but it turns out more people order tacos and I'm enjoying that."But those on the a la carte menu need some tweaking. For now, calabaza tacos ($13) taste like pumpkin pie in a tortilla, not really a plus no matter how local the squash or how piquant the pepita slaw. An order of pork in the pastor tacos had the texture of crispy bits layered with pineapple, red onion and lime. But dry, room-temperature pork tastes like burnt sand, no matter the condiments. And fishy mahi-mahi announced its arrival on the pescado tacos,Taps, a Boozy Social House and Kitchen more pungent than fragrant and the least popular of a night's dishes.

My friends thought the fish was a fluke, but the coctel de camarones appetizer was also afflicted, served like a Victorian shrimp cocktail from the '50s, where shrimp spiraled around a demi-bowl of sauce. I craved a lustier presentation in which smaller shrimp swim in a sea of roasted tomatoes and jalapeno peppers, cucumber, celery and cilantro.The menu could use some big, brawny meats, such as carnitas or lengua tongue tacos, both of which have made an appearance when Mr. Bulman first arrived and will return soon, he said.For the time being, diners are better served by the smoked fingerling appetizer, the papas ahumadas with a chipotle vinaigrette and an egg garnish -- the beginnings of a Mexican breakfast. Fried brussels sprouts are a delight, caramelized and dressed with crushed almonds and queso fresco.

Mr. Bulman makes an interesting choice by swapping brisket for duck confit in the tamales de pato -- steamed in corn husks and served with roasted carrots, apple salsa and a cider reduction. What makes sense here is that the masa isn't made with lard as is traditional, but the duck fat from the confit complements it.And of course, there are salsas, a counterbalance snack for a couple of rounds of tequila. The smoked chipotle salsa is probably the hottest, made with roasted peppers from Conover Farm.The thing is, if a diner starts a meal with chips and salsa, then he less likely will order a tasting menu. This is unfortunate, since it ends up a better value at $35 for five courses and $55 for eight courses. On the tasting menus, a liberal use of seasonal vegetables and bold seasonings make for a more compelling experience and a better display of Mr. Bulman's skill.